While heading to Asakusa Station (浅草駅) on the Tobu Skytree Line (東武スカイツリーライン) for work, I happened to pass through an underground passage and spotted a familiar-looking izakaya.
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It was the very same izakaya where Yakusho Kōji (役所広司) ended his day in Perfect Days (2023), the film directed by Wim Wenders.
The owner, who handed over water instead of alcohol while saying “Otsukaresama” (お疲れ様), still runs the place. Those who have seen the movie will know—it’s a quiet and contemplative film, so the izakaya hasn’t yet become a major seichi (聖地, “holy site” for fans). Thanks to that, it still retains a peaceful atmosphere.
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The exact seat where Yakusho Kōji sat was empty, but since I had work to do, I decided to come back later for dinner.
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Perfect Days: A Film That Captures the Real Asakusa & Sumida
Directed by renowned German filmmaker Wim Wenders, Perfect Days (2023) gained international recognition when Yakusho Kōji won Best Actor at the Cannes Film Festival. The film follows Hirayama (平山), a quiet man who works as a public toilet cleaner in Tokyo, capturing the simple beauty of his daily life. Shot with a documentary-like realism, it beautifully portrays the authentic streets of Asakusa (浅草) and Sumida (墨田).
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Interestingly, Hirayama doesn’t actually live in Asakusa but in Sumida Ward (墨田区). After work, he crosses the Azuma Bridge (吾妻橋) by bicycle to reach his favorite izakaya. This reflects a long-standing local tradition—many Sumida residents head to Asakusa for a drink after work, as the atmosphere of the two areas is quite different.
The sento (public bath) featured in the film also exists in real life. It’s called Denki-yu (電気湯), an old bathhouse in the Kyojima (京島) neighborhood of Sumida. But diving into the deep connections between Taito Ward (台東区) and Sumida Ward could take forever—perhaps a story for another day.
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Returning at Night… Only to Find It Closed
When I came back in the evening, the izakaya had already closed. Had it become more popular due to the movie, selling out all its ingredients for the day?
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Since I had already made the trip to Asakusa, I wasn’t going to leave empty-handed. Stepping outside the station, I was met with a lively crowd. Tokyo in January is colder than expected, but the streets were overflowing with tourists.
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Many people associate Asakusa Station with the famous Kaminarimon (雷門) gate at Sensō-ji Temple (浅草寺), but the best local restaurants are actually a block away from the main tourist spots.
Walking through the backstreets, I stumbled upon a small izakaya and decided to stop in for a drink.
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A highball (ハイボール) and beer (ビール) to start. And then…
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Saba Nikomi (サバ煮込み, simmered mackerel).
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Tempura Moriawase (天ぷら盛り合わせ, assorted tempura).
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Aji Sashimi (アジ刺し, horse mackerel sashimi).
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As I waited for my food, I noticed a small detail that revealed the izakaya’s long history—a soroban (そろばん, Japanese abacus) placed at the register.
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Of course, in reality, there was an electronic calculator hidden beneath it.
Heading home with yet another new and enjoyable experience today.
